Cartagena, Colombia, is a city of captivating contrasts. The glossy brochures showcase a vibrant, romantic haven – the “tourist Cartagena” – but a deeper exploration reveals a complex reality, the “real Cartagena,” where the echoes of history, poverty, and resilience intertwine.
The postcard-perfect version centers on the walled Old City (Ciudad Amurallada) and Getsemaní. Here, meticulously preserved colonial architecture gleams in the tropical sun. Bougainvillea cascades from balconies, casting shadows on cobblestone streets. Horse-drawn carriages clip-clop past upscale restaurants serving fresh seafood and boutique hotels catering to international visitors. This is Cartagena of luxury, history distilled for consumption, a meticulously curated experience where safety is paramount and English is widely spoken.
Beyond the walls, however, lies a different world. Bocagrande, with its Miami-esque skyline, offers modern comforts and beachfront resorts, but even here, the cracks in the facade begin to show. Venture further into neighborhoods like Olaya Herrera or La Boquilla, and the sanitized image dissolves. Here, the real Cartagena pulses with the daily lives of its residents. Homes are simpler, often constructed with brightly painted cinder blocks. Street food vendors offer delicious but inexpensive arepas and empanadas. The air is thick with the sounds of cumbia music, animated conversations, and the ever-present hustle of daily survival.
The stark inequality is a defining characteristic of the real Cartagena. While tourism fuels the economy, the benefits are not evenly distributed. Many locals struggle to make ends meet, relying on informal employment or tourism-related jobs that offer meager wages. The gap between the opulent walled city and the surrounding neighborhoods is a constant reminder of this disparity. Access to quality education and healthcare remains a challenge for many.
However, the real Cartagena is not defined solely by its struggles. It’s a city brimming with resilience, creativity, and a vibrant cultural identity. The warmth and hospitality of its people are undeniable. Despite the challenges they face, they maintain a strong sense of community and a deep connection to their Afro-Caribbean heritage. Music, dance, and art are integral to everyday life, expressing a spirit that transcends hardship.
Exploring the real Cartagena requires venturing beyond the tourist trail. It means engaging with locals, learning about their stories, and understanding the complexities of their lives. It means supporting local businesses and respecting the culture. By doing so, visitors can gain a more authentic appreciation for this multifaceted city and contribute to a more equitable and sustainable form of tourism. The “tourist Cartagena” offers beauty and history, but the “real Cartagena” offers a profound and unforgettable experience.
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